New Audi S4 B7 Engine Transplant into an S4 B6

The S4 Project

The S4 High Shine

Now the trouble begins!

After about two years in storage we drag the brand new engine out of a fabulously clean family owned and run house removal/storage company in Bangor


This was the smallest unit available at the time and it was as clean and dry inside as it was on the outside

The Smallest Unit

It took a forklift to set it safely on my bike trailer


Ratchet straps to hold it in place for the journey


To keep road dust and stones off the engine I wrapped it in a film


I met this strange man while I was there


To buy one of these brand new engines as complete as this one (I just needed to add a power steering pump, starter motor, aircon pump and flywheel) would cost about £15,000, I was lucky enough to buy this for £3,500 and it was one of six from a bankrupt kit car company, very lucky indeed


There’s that man again


Ready to travel so we headed to the workshop


The steel bench at the workshop for a good working height


Stow away lifting gear was so handy




I kept the engine on the factory wooden pallet as long as possible as it things so much easier to work at



Here we’re getting a feel of the tight engine and compression


All new inside too

New S4 Engine Cams 1

The new unused exhaust port, lovely!

Exhaust Port

The compact standard exhaust manifolds were removed and a set of free flowing RS4 headers fitted, these arn’t a direct fit and had to be modified as the RS4 uses a different cylinder head with different port spacings, they really brought the engine to life and added a little more of a harsh sound and that was welcome


Some conversion work was needed to get them to fit 

They have been fitted to my car since November 2015 with no issues at all and it’s almost 2018

The gearbox support brackets being attached


New stainless steel exhaust gaskets


The flange surface being prepaired


This is the first look at the headers on the engine


Sitting nice, plenty of clearance so far


But when the water cooled alternator was fitted I could see a water cooling pipe had an issue

(Since doing this mod I realised there is an easier way round this issue and that is to fit the RS4 alternator bracket, spring loaded tensioner and belt)

The original manifold had more than enough clearance


but the pipe couldn’t be fitted once the headers were installed

Alternator Bend

To get round this problem I had to modify the pipe, cut at 45º then used the small part that fits into the alternator, I used a 4″ long steel tube with a outside diameter of 12mm and an old steel I spacer tube and drilled two 12mm holes


When fitted together the spacer tube was plugged with a bolt at each end then cut flush


The holes were drilled slightly off centre


This is what I was looking for, just need a kink in the pipe to make it almost level as the air should not get trapped


Brazed to seal it up, a little kink to point it where it needs to go and the end heated and hammered to swell it to help keep the hose on when under working pressure


Now it skims across the top of the alternator


Pressure tested under water


And painted with Smoothrite to finish off


Close but not touching so needed a little more clearance


Some heat applied and a little reshaping and it was ready to fit


Heat reflective wrap for obvious reasons




There’s a lot more surface area with headers to give off heat, so to protect wiring, water pipes etc insulation is a must and it also helps with scavenging




A pair of RS4 engine mount heat shields were fitted

RS4:S4 Engine Mount Heat Shield

It came with this Flywheel/ring gear item for an auto box so it had to go


and the JHMotorsport lightweight aluminium flywheel fitted

Alloy Flywheel


At first I went by the JHM fitting instructions which were to force it on (as it is an interference fit) but I didn’t like this idea so stopped and removed it, I found the harder crank shaft was scrapping little pieces off the flywheel that would be trapped between the crank and flywheel, this could cause the flywheel not to sit flat against the crank and cause an off balance vibration


Half an hour in a low heated oven to expand it so it would just slide on, the old fashioned way!


Lightweight Flywheel

A new B7 RS4 clutch was fitted

RS4 Clutch

That’s as far as I can go until I get the gearbox out


Some nice new parts have arrived from JHMotorsport

New JHM Parts 1

Just in time mum


Time to get dirty

Drain all the liquids, washer bottle water, engine coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil, power steering oil and air con gas


The step by step guide was supplied by “that man,” it helps add confidence


Headlights and bumper next


Labeling the fan control module and ambient temperature sensor plugs


Air con gas still oozing and swelling the glove


This R134a gas should not be released to the atmosphere as it may burn a hole in the chemtrails, then the man-made clouds wouldn’t form and we’d get sunshine…

Sky 1

The front panel next, all pipework and electrical connections will be marked when disconnected


disconnect cats




Inch by inch, disconnecting things as they come into view or reach


So easy to break something at this point as you feel it’s got to come out now



Funny enough the last thing to disconnect is the starter as it’s cable is very long


Whats he grinning about, it’s to go back in again!



Split the box from the block


Side by side, now we can start swapping parts



Will it ever run again?


There really is a lot going on in there


Gunk, scrub with brush then power wash the worst items

Power washed parts No Reg

The engine has been bought by an engineering company in Germany so has to be stripped


Power washed


Wrapped and ready to travel, they were in the UK buying engines here and there then came to Ireland specially for this engine


More of mums scones tea and coffee


The Gearbox

A popular upgrade for the S4 is the fitting of the RS4 B7 40/60 centre diff which replaces the S4 50/50, this puts more drive to the rear wheels makeing it easier to steer under power

I bought a low milage B7 RS4 box but the final drive ratio is different although the gear ratio’s are slightly closer so with a mix of the two I would have a one off box and the best of both worlds

Gardiner Transmissions were recomended by a friend and that was a mistake

Gardiner Transmissions 1

the manager said “I’ll get them on a bench next week, strip them and give you a call to discuss what’s required”

That was great to get this done so quick as I was imposing on my brother inlaws garage space

Loads of Gearboxes

I called “each week” to see how things were coming along

“I have a bench cleared and them on it and will get a look at them shortly” he said

After THREE weeks I’d had enough and drove up to see what was going on

Looks more like a floor than a bench to me as I found them still on the floor!!!

My 2 Boxes on floor

I put them in the boot and put it down to a bad choice

Gear Boxes Rescued

A search of the internet and I found SNJ Motors, a quick chat with Neil and I knew he was the man so I left the boxes with him


later that day I was back to collect, no messing around here

These are the unused S4 gears and the RS4 diff

S4 Gears

Here is the unused S4 50/50 centre diff which is fitted to the rear end of the gearbox

RS4 40:60 Diff

That same day the box was on

Box On

A JHM Delrin gear linkage bush was next to help tighten things up

Delrin Bush

The alloy JHM’s alloy short through shifter was fitted to remove the excessive movement that is apparent with the nylon Audi item

Short Shift


JHM Short Shifter 1


The man says it’s ready!

Col Thumbs Up

It’s that time again


Now to install it


It’s nicely balanced with the chains on the two rear lifting points



At this point it can still go wrong, things can get smashed, bent or forgotten





At last


Along with two new belt pulley bearings and a new belt I added another aluminium part, the JHM Lightweight crank pulley, it may not look like much but the weight difference is amazing

Alloy Front Pulley

New Front Pully Etc


The headers are sitting quite accessible


The RS4 B7 has two cats on each pipe, a pre-cat, and a main cat that’s high flow


Here the Pre-cats have been chopped out

RS4 Cats Removed




Their sitting as they should, nice and high



The original exhaust would restrict the flow as the bore is now too small and the silencers arn’t free flow


and it looks tired too


I picked up this nice X-pipe that will help scavenge

X pipe

Inside the cross over

X pipe Inside

Scott and I treated ourselves to a weekend of fantastic motorsport at The Goodwood Festival of Speed on June 2015 and stopped off at MIJ Exhausts in Birmingham on the way to have them make up a new stainless steel system, I had spoke to Jay (the proprietor) about the install on the phone and emailed him too


The first thing the guys done that I liked was to weld easy exhaust removal flanges


Lovely welds and a hand made system that lay flat on the floor with my X-pipe in there too


The lads took their time and done a fantastic job


One step at a time


They even made the silencers from scratch



Well fitted with plenty of ground clearance



Even though the straight through silencers are this small the sound was kept to a lovely soft tone but part of that is down to the X-pipe


The dreaded 2K drone was now a problem and I called MIJ from Goodwood and booked it in to have that issue resolved on my journey back to Ireland


The guys made up larger 6″ silencers


That helped a little but also silenced a little more, the drone was still a problem, since Jay was away having his Skyline ECU setup by professionals in Saudi I decided to leave it like that for the moment and talk to him later

I called MIJ and asked if Jay could contact me about the problem and left my number, I emailed and called again but the life time guarantee looks like internet data only, for the moment!!!

I have discovered a possible fix for the drone issue and spoke to another manufacture for costing for this, £200

I’ll get to that later.

034 Street Density Gearbox Mount

To help tighten up the drive train I fitted this.

034 Trans Mount



Intake Manifold Spacers

The JHM Intake manifold spacers separate the aluminium cylinder heads from the aluminium intake manifold managing to accomplish at least two worth while improvements, (1) extending the length of the inlet tract, (2) reduce the intake air temperature, combined these make a noticeable improvement to the torque, a slightly sharper response and I’m lead to believe more power too.


I’ve had these a while now and eventually got round to fitting them, I kept my iPad nearby to refer to and it just a couple of hours.



It was interesting to see how much carbon deposite there wasn’t!



I thought it odd that the under side was sprayed black


Everything, no matter how insignificant you think it might be, all add up to make an impressive difference




The longer bolts supplied didn’t have washers like the original and I found that they wern’t going to be easy separated so I went ahead and fitted them without the washers, but as I tightened them I had a bit of a shock


even though I was being very careful it felt like I had just stripped the threads in the head!
I took the bolt back out and found the narrow head of the bolt broke off a sliver of the shoulder around the bolt hole in the manifold allowing the bolt to go a little farther into the hole, I fitted washers on all the fourteen bolts to be sure.


This is what it should look like


as expected there’s a slightly wider gap between the slam panel and the V8 – 4.2 trim



sitting a fraction higher now


More Air

With the exhaust headers now flowing much better than the standard manifold I found the induction was restricted at three quarters to full throttle, even with the high flow panel filter in the standard airbox and the 034 silicone MAF hose, I removed part of the snorkel and that helped but when I fitted the K&N cone type filter it was clear that it was getting more air, what a difference, straight to 7K, even though I haven’t got a heat wall fitted, that will come later.

K&N Cone

Brakes next

The standard work quite well if not pushed, so they had to go

Standard S4 1

The old back plates were never treated from the factory so rust very badly

Old Back Plate 1

I aquired a set of used RS4 discs, bigger diameter but the alloy hub offsets the weight, a quick coat of satin to freshen them up

S4 & RS4 1

The RS4 back plates are new so a coat of Smoothrite will prolong their life, not much there as the vents are massive

RS4 Back Plate 1

New RS4 calipers and Braided hoses

Braided Hoses on Bench 1

Braided Hoses 1


RS4 Brakes Fitted 1

Gotta say these are a brilliant mod

RS a 1

To be continued


32 thoughts on “New Audi S4 B7 Engine Transplant into an S4 B6”

  1. This is interesting. Thanks a lot for sharing. What was the motivation for the engine swap? Did something happen to the original engine?


    1. Where’s your location?
      As soon as I heard the startup rattle I kept an eye out for an engine.
      It used quite a bit of oil through the valve guides although the compressions were all good, I came across bankruptcy stock which including 6 complete S4 engines one of which I got about the same cost as having the timing gear replaced so I just had to do more than just a straight swap, and it all was well worth while, better than I/we expected, much more powerful than we thought so the next stage should be the same again!


  2. Wow, what a lucky break coming across 6 engines! I’m in the US. Otherwise, I would offer to take one off of your hands for you. 😉 I’ll continue to follow this page. You have some of the most detailed information I’ve found about these cars.


  3. Great work here daviem – nice to see another local Audi maniac getting his hands dirty in the murky world of not bolting on go faster parts from big name vendors and defending himself from the flack of many a ‘murrican fanboy. Also admiring the accusump fix for the depressing V8 startup rattle that my 2003 B6 S4 Avant also exhibits…. then there’s the noisy wheel bearings… the rubbish clutch / caramel flywheel… the flimflam glovebox, ghosts in the sunroof switchgear and don’t get me started on the front wiper mechanism or the devils very own invention – secondary air injection.


    1. Nuge

      I appreciate your comments and your understanding of the effort that has gone into this.

      If you want to make a good car brilliant you need to put some effort in, then when you have sorted your issues you’ll not want to part with it, you know what I mean…

      I removed my front wiper mechanism recently, dismantled it and rebuilt it with grease, now it’s smooth, quite and fast.

      I have another set of converted RS4 Headers if you know someone that wants to bring their S4 to life just let me know.


  4. Hello,
    Did all of the electrical components match up? And did any of the electrical components or any other components give you any problems in regards to putting a B7 engine into a B6?
    And what were the codes of both of the engines, and which engines are compatible with the 2004 S4 sedan with a BHF 4.2?
    The engine in my B6 dropped a valve and I found a B7 4.2 for sale in Canada. I am in the USA.
    Please get back to me, thank you.


    1. Hi Safi
      The engine I removed was BBK (don’t have the code) and the engine fitted BHF 023145.
      Everything is in the same place so no modifications required, but I was prepared to swap any item that may have had an updated plug etc from my old engine to the new one but no need.
      One thing to keep in mind is (if your car is a manual) that the B6 flywheels give bother so it’s recommended to update to the B7 flywheel, I went for the solid lightweight aluminium type but there is also a lighter than the original solid steel type.
      One thing that was different was the fuel rail, the old was two pipe (return) and the new was single.
      There is a timing chain mod that you can do, I think you replace a plastic guide with a stronger RS4 item, check with JHMOTORSPORT.
      I would recommend the Accusump mod too, easier to connect before the installation.
      I have a PDF of how to remove the engine if you’d like it?
      I disconnected individual electrical connections and didn’t remove the loom.
      Best luck.


  5. Hi i had just finished swapping my b6 s4 motor for a low mileage b7 s4 motor into my 2004 b6 s4. I was wondering if you had to do anything with vag-com or ecu with the newer motor in. I tried to start the car for the first time bit it just idles very low at about 300rpms and shuts off after 10 seconds. I tried this about 6 or 7 times.


    1. Hi Marc
      Where abouts in the world are you?
      No VAG-COM or ECU changes, your engine only has sensors sending information, same sensors on the B6 engine, take a look at your fuel system, it could be pressure, you didn’t flatten a pipe?
      Check induction, coolant level, oil level and pressure. Let me know how you get on.


  6. Checked everything so far i smell fuel from the tail pipe while cranking so i assume the fuel pressure is fine. Just no spark. I will dig into this deeper but thank you for the info on vag com and ecu i was worried i would have to change the ecu.
    Pennsylvania, USA


  7. Well my Chains have jumped, I’ve managed to source a low mileage engine as mine has done 140k
    Just out of interest did the other engines get sold?
    Would love to stick a now block in!


  8. I am “at the crossroads” with my S4… The usual enjoyment of showing the spanners at any 10+ yr old Audi and now I need some advice or mental therapy to save my sanity.

    I started out to replace noisy front wheel bearings that have been groaning for longer than I care to admit – but I have been putting this off for a while as I feared a driveway clogging episode would arise – and I was right.

    Usual drama from Satan’s pinch bolt and I discover the upper arm joints could use a refresh so I source a nice complete set of arms from Meyle in Germany.

    Removing the rear lower front arms is a right pain – so little clearance for the bolt – I ended up ripping off some underbody plastic trim just to pull out the bolts. Where that bush sits in the front subframe gets rather rusty so I took the time to treat that properly with POR15.

    Also had a good fight with brake union on the right side – spotted the hydraulic lines with signs of cracks starting – its 120k miles and all original down there.

    The front discs needed to be replaced too so I added those to the shopping list.

    I also discovered the inner CV boot on front left driveshaft was split – after I had both suspension assemblies removed so that’s a bugger in terms of bodging some way to lock the box and remove the driveshaft.

    Anyway – now we are getting to the tricky part – at some point into the multi day part time activity I see drips of a red coloured oil on the left side main cat- weird as I have never had oil leak there before as evidenced by where the car normally parks.

    It smells like a transmission oil to me – now while it’s just a small drip from a source I cannot yet see – it’s a worry – I wondered if it’s possible the angle at which the car is up on stands would cause an overfilled ‘box (it’s manual) to drip out of a breather plug ?

    Or is there a more normal failure point for a gearbox seal / gasket ?

    Should I just bite the bullet and drop the entire engine and gearbox now that I am this far in ?

    I had been hoping to delay doing the cam chain tensioner for another day, but this could be enabled along with the modified RS4 headers, precat delete, SAI delete, new B7 clutch, any gearbox work but I feel like I need my head examined to take all that on – especially when I only planned to do the front wheel bearings.

    Any advice or pointers welcome !


    1. It all depends what you want and if the body of car is in good condition, everything else just bolts on.
      They make a fantastic sleeper that always draws attention even when sitting still.
      Rip it out and bring it to life just as I did, replace what ever needs replaced and you will know more about that car, you’ll never look back.
      Fit the Accusump and use Miller’s Nano Drive oil to keep it as it is inside.


  9. Hello Davie,

    Nice swap and very informative/detailed description. Why the Accusump, did you not want just to change the check valves? I live in Bristol, have Nogaro paint as well.

    Also, have you thought about supercharging, you would not have to worry about hot intake anymore. I love these cars, well maybe not the all alu engine block that almost definitely will be scored at some point (it’s good you have insulated your headers by the way). Block warping it the scoring cause.

    Did you have to replace the O2 sensor or program it out from ECU after installing new exchaust? I would like to remove the stock headers monstrocity as well. Do you have any advise if I wanted to buy myself RS4 headers and modify? Importing JHM headers seems to be not very cost effective.


    1. Hi, Thank you for the comment, it’s great to get feedback from people all around the world, and it’s true the Nogaro’s are quicker.

      The original engine was using oil and had rattled on startup and I think a plastic tensioner had been broken so I knew the engine had to be replaced, so until then the Accusump prevented any more rattles and damage.
      I was so lucky to come across a new engine, a chance of a lifetime and I make sure I use the Accusump on each startup as I know it is the best thing for it.

      I have another engine for sale that has had the check valves replaced if you know of anyone looking for one, infact I am breaking an S4 Cabriolet, I also have some RS4 panels for sale.

      Funny you should ask about a blower, I happen to have a PES kit waiting to be fitted, I was talking to Kim Collins of QSTuning who will spend a couple of days setting it up, he is the man as he already has a map the same as came with the kit that he has spent time on so it’s quite tidy as it is, the couple of days that he wants my car for should produce a perfect map for my setup.
      That will be interesting…

      I use Millers NanoDrive racing oil to prolong it’s life and hope not to do damage to the bores or the many valve guides.

      Do you happen to know how the block could warp or what would cause it to warp?

      I extended the O2 sensors wiring keeping them all in place and eventually had two of them mapped out when I had a map uploaded.

      I have sold a number of these headers to some “happy” S4 guys and I have a couple of companies convert them for me, I have to collect another set shortly if your interested.

      The headers are fantastic as you know, I had to fit a large K&N cone filter as I found the standard unit was restricting air in only because of the headers getting it out so efficiently, pulling very strong to 7k and now using less fuel, I’m getting another 2mpg.

      JHM told me that the headers couldn’t be converted, it wouldn’t work as the port spacing is different, that made me determined to do it.
      Their units were far too expensive and no better than the RS4 headers, I know that as a few companies have tried to improve on them and gave up, note JHM don’t make headers for the V8 RS4.

      Have a look at this tripe for a laugh..
      These guys were looking after JHMotorsport’s interest, I gave up in the end knowing I am right…

      By the way I am “Dammad” in that string


  10. Very nice work, man. Love it, especially the RS4 headers. I did the “economy” version of this same procedure, just swapping in a brand new, previously unused B7 BHF engine (complete with auxiliary parts) into my B6. Cost me 15 grand tho, I was not lucky enough to find some bankrupt place that tries to get rid of them 🙂


    1. I appreciate your comment and glad that others are enjoying the S4’s, I know they are quite rare now, that makes them all the more interesting.
      I travel a lot in this and get many people wanting to ask questions.
      You went through the same thing as I did so you appreciate the effort and cost etc.
      The headers are just brilliant and I have another set if you feel like fitting them?
      I have quite a number of other performance parts if you are interested let me know and I will email a list and send pictures.
      Have a look at the other comments to see what others think.
      If you follow this blog you will be notified of other additions, like the 034 gearbox mount that I just added after you viewed it.


  11. In all honestly one of the bests post I think I have seen along with great detail. I own 2 B6 S4’s and I have always wondered about putting the Rs4 exhaust manifolds on them. I would really like to know how much work it takes and if it is worth it? The other mods you have done are the same ones I have done, except I have JHM tune also that is nice but makes the car more jumpy.. it seems they just changed the parameters on the throttle response… I see no difference from half throttle to full throttle. Great job and wonderful post. Hats off to you..


    1. Mike, sorry for the late reply.
      I too found that same issue with the JHM tune so fought with JHM for a refund and suceeded, you can sell your ECU with the tune and start again.
      I am about to fit a PES supercharger and have Kim from QS Tuning do the remap, he said I’ll have 475bhp but I doubt if he has tuned an S4 with RS4 headers and the lightwheight components so it will be interesting to see the results, especaily because of what I intend to do to control the temperature, watch this space!


  12. Hi Davie,

    I’m in the process of removing the engine from my 2005 s4 cab.
    I’ve got a set of JHM cam sprockets to go in, check valves, rs4 chain guide, etc.
    I’d be interested in a set of headers.
    I’m also interested in how you find the JHM flywheel.

    Regards, Chris.


    1. Hi Chris, firstly thank you for your comment, I think it’s great that others aren’t afraid to take the bull by the horns, spend some money, sort the issues and improve what they have and release a lot more power that this quad cam, five valve per cylinder unit can produce, your about to have a machine that not only sounds like what it is, but goes the way it should! remember, you won’t need to touch this engine again except to service it as there is no carbon issue.
      After I fitted my new engine I regretted that I didn’t fit the upgraded chain guides, but I suspect any damage is done to the delicate plastic guides on startup with chains lashing them, so I still rely on the brilliant accusump system before starting, cold or hot.
      I think you know what the headers do so I won’t go into that.
      I discussed the lightweight flywheel with my mate Scott who helped me to do the work, I had a fear that it may be make the engine very easy to stall, have tickover issues and loose a lot of torque, but he convinced me that the internals of the V8 would have enough momentum to run with little to no flywheel.
      Having a completely new system, engine, headers, alloy flywheel and front pulley but retaining the OEM ECU tune I had a very lively engine that wanted to rev and had loads more power, the only disadvantage that I noticed was the torque had had moved up about 500/700 rpm, so in a high gear you will have less on a motorway kind of thing, so the power was a little more concentrated in the slightly higher rpm range, so at just below 3K you will feel the power come in and more above 3k, and quite a lot more again at around 5k, you will feel the power changes as the rpm’s rise unlike the linier unlively feel from what you have now, and the sound to go with it.
      If you want a cruiser, keep it the way it is, if you’d like a lot more performance do it, at the moment I have the flywheel and the headers it you decide, the flywheel is wrapped in clingfilm in my garage to keep it nice.
      What part of this world do you reside?
      Best wishes


      1. Hi davie,
        Thanks for the reply!
        I’m in Ponteland – near Newcastle upon Tyne.
        I’m not a good mechanic by any means, but have done quite a bit of work in the past. I’m certainly not going to let this great car die as I think many will be forced to. I’ve had it since a year old and it will live on 🙂
        I do fancy more performance and already have a revo tune with their little select switch that allows you to adjust fuelling, timing and throttle response. I also got a cat-back exhaust made from a race company with only 2 high flow cats and an x-pipe. Did all that at about 35k miles.
        How do you find the driveability of the flywheel – any vibration/harshness?
        I agree that the guide damage is probably from chain slap. I think the check valves start failing a bit and allow the chain to slap around 😦
        I’ve, currently just got the ecu wiring loom to remove/ bulkhead stuff to remove and I should be able to pull it out – yippee.
        One problem that manifested a couple of months before this, was that I started hearing a thumping when outside the car/ under the bonnet.
        You could also hear it with a bar to the ear on certain places on the intake manifold, but not from the sump or anywhere on the block. Strange! In time with the revs. I’m thinking maybe small end or the cam adjuster really broken , as it would sometimes rev roughly. I don’t know if you’ve come acrosss this?
        Good compressions hot or cold.
        Regards, chris.


      2. Chris
        I work regularly in London with a guy from Newcastle Upon Tyne…
        Since I changed everything regarding the engine it’s difficult to make a comparison, but I did notice a slight change in where the torque starts, feels like it starts about 500rpm higher so there is a little less down where the previous engine had it, it does come in just below 2k then it builds more and more until 3k then you have a rush, it just takes off pulling very hard, much more than before, no comparison, I think a combination of the lightweight parts and headers free up a lot more power.
        It’s a little easier to stall but if you hadn’t driven it before and didn’t know the LWFW was fitted you would think nothing of it, in other words not really noticeable in that respect.
        No vibration, no shudder and no harshness, it’s the way forward, I think there is enough inertia with the sum of all the moving parts in the V8 to make this work so well, I have 37k now on mine, no issues at all.
        I haven’t any experience with your noise issue but from what I’ve read and the combination of the noise in the upper regions of the engine and a misfire does suggest that you have variable timing trouble.
        Tomorrow I’m meeting a guy who is doing the same as you, he wants the parts that I have for sale but wants to hear it and experience the lift that it has compared to his, I think he will be sold instantly.
        If I can help feel free to give me a shout, I’ll do what I can.


      3. Hi Davie,

        Many thanks for the offer of help.
        Give me a shout if the guy doesn’t purchase the parts.
        I’ve just hauled the engine out today – took about 2 hours of fiddling after work 🙂 Seperated the gearbox and that’s enough for tonight. Looking forward to seeing what the clutch is like, considering it still has the same clutch from new after 95K miles.


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